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>> Alcamo
alcamo il castello dei Condi di Modica
Alcamo : Comune della provincia di Trapani di 47.000 abitanti circa
Come Raggiungerla : da Alcamo Marina percorrere fino all fine la strada comunele che portala all'autostrada A29
Sito Ufficiale : www.comune.alcamo.tp.it
Rich of monuments and works, Alcamo rises in front of the gulf of Castellammare, among the hills covered by vineyards which extend from the feet of Monte Bonifato to the sea. Native land of Cielo D'Alcamo (author of the "Contrasto d'Amore", the first written literary work in vulgar Italian), Alcamo was born during the Arabic domination as Manzil Al Qamah, a country house-station along the commercial road that joined Palermo to Mazara del Vallo, protected by the two fortresses of Bonifato and Calatubo described, in the XII century, by the arab geographer Al Idris and by the andalusian pilgrim Ibn Gubayr.
In the XIV century, under the domination of the Ventimiglia family, with the construction of the castle "of Conti di Modica", after the definitive abandonment of the inhabited centre on Mount Bonifato, protected by walls, the first big inhabited nucleus developes. From the XV to the XVIII century at the borders of the city, there is the settlement of the religious orders around which, outside the 14th century city-walls, the new quarters were born. At the end of the XVII century, with the building of the imposing church of Jesus, the "Piano Maggiore" (the present Piazza Ciullo), hinge between the original nucleus and the "new city", becomes the fulcrum of the baroque of Alcamo and assumes, already from that time, the function of city centre.
After the union of Italy, with the transformation of the buildings belonged to the religious orders into schools, hospitals and barracks, and with the destruction of its walls, the building expansion until the slopes of Mount Bonifato begins and, at the same time, there is the progressive decline of the ancient part of the city. In the last years, with the consolidation and the restoration of the main monuments, made with the rediscovery of the architectonic heritage, the historical center assumes again the function of city "living-room".
The visit can begin from the public square, Piazza Ciullo. At the corner with the "cassaro grande" (Corso 6 Aprile), rises the church of S. Oliva. It has been built up between 1722 and 1774 by the architect Giovan Biagio Amico on a previous 14th century church. The outside is simple but imposing, with a high facade enriched by a 16th century portal and a small angular bell tower without external cuspid in the apse. With the restorations carried out after the fire of 1989, in which the ceiling frescoes have been destroyed, the church, in its lonly nave, is rich of putties, paintings and polychrome marbles. Among the works, we remind the "Anime Sante del Purgatorio" (1639), valuable painting of Pietro Novelli, unfortunately badly restored, situated on the main altar; the statue of S. Oliva (1511), one of the masterpieces of Antonello Gagini; two marble panels belonging to the Gagini school, at the sides of the apse, representing S. Luca and S. Angelo (XVI century), and the marble group of the "Annunciazione", coming from the church of "L'Annunziata" and made by Antonino and Giacomo Gagini (1545), which we find in the first chapel on the left. The square is dominated by the church of "collegio Gesuiti" (1684-1767), with the high and harmonious facade decorated of sculptures and friezes, and surmounted, at the sides, by two small twin bell towers.
The inside, with its lonly nave with transept, keeps some paintings of Novelli's school (XVIII century), S. Francesco Saverio and S. Ignazio di Lojola and, on the main altar, The Circoncisione (the Circumcision), great painting realized in 1796 by the painter Giuseppe Renda and ordered by the Jesuits. In the near oratory, unfortunately badly preserved, the frescoes of Domenico La Bruna are visible. They represent the "Assunta" and the "Santi Gesuiti" (1738). Walking along Via Mazzini, we arrive in Piazza della Repubblica, at the 14th century Castle of the "Conti di Modica". Often rehashed, the building keeps at present the original structure with rhomboidal plant, with four towers on the corners (two square and two round), and the elegant windows of gothic-catalan taste. Beyond the public square, on Piano S. Maria, is the church of S. Maria del Gesù founded in the XV century, with the annexed convent of the Minor Friars, by the Blessed Arcangelo Plagenza, coming from Calatafimi. Widened in 1507, as the Counts of Modica wished, and restructured in 1762, it is characteri-zed, in the facade, by a singular portal with arches and four columns in white marble, enriched by corinthian capitals. In the inside, after the elegant portal ascribed to Berrettaro (1507), we find a valuable marble case of Baldassare Massa (1556). Above the glass urn, which keeps the Blessed Archangel's corpse, founder of the church, you can admire the splendid table of the "Madonna Greca" (XVI century).
Raffigura la Madonna col Bambino tra i Santi Francesco e Benedetto e, inginocchiati con alcuni cavalieri e dame, i conti di Modica Federico Enriquez d'Aragona e Anna I Cabrera, ricostruttori della chiesa. Notevoli sono pure la statua della Madonna col Bambino (sec. XVI) posta all'altare maggiore, attribuita al Berrettaro o al Mancino, e gli affreschi delle pareti raffiguranti le Stazioni della Via Crucis, eseguiti nel 1901 da Carlo Righetti. Tornati in piazza Ciullo, immettendoci nel "cassaro stretto" nel punto in cui nelle antiche mura si apriva la Porta Trapani, si entra nella "città vecchia". Nella piazzetta IV novembre prospetta la chiesa Madre, dedicata a S. Maria Assunta ed elevata a Basilica nel 1966. Fondata nel 1332 e ampliata nel XVI secolo, deve l'attuale aspetto agli architetti Angelo Italia e Giuseppe Diamante (1669). La facciata, disegnata da Emanuele Cardona, risale al 1785. Dell'edificio originario conserva il campanile, realizzato adattando una preesistente torre di avvistamento, il portale del lato est, attribuito al Berrettaro (1499), e l'elegante Cappella dello Spirito Santo o della Sacra Spina (1430), che si apre in fondo alla navata destra. Conserva gli archi originali ad ogiva in pietra e l'affresco de "La Pentecoste" (sec. XV) scoperto durante i restauri del 1958. All'altare è posto un prezioso reliquiario del 1636 in cui è racchiusa una spina appartenuta, si dice, alla corona di Cristo.
The painting is of uncertain author but it can be attributed to Antonello Crescenzio, to whose style it seems to be near, for the influences of the Lombardic art, which are visible in the painting. He represents the Madonna with the Child between the Saints Francis and Benedict and, knelt down with some knights and ladies, the counts of Modica Federico Enriquez D'Aragona and Anna I Cabrera, who rebuilt the church. Remarkable are even the statue of the "Madonna col Bambino" (XVI century) on the main altar, attributed to Berrettaro or Mancino, and the frescoes of the walls representing the "Stazioni della Via Crucis"(the Via Crucis stops), realized in 1901 by Carlo Righetti.
Back to Piazza Ciullo, entering the "cassaro stretto", where in the ancient walls "Porta Trapani" opened, we get into the "old city". In "IV November Square", there is the Mother Church, dedicated to S. Maria Assunta and nominated "Basilica" in 1966. It was founded in 1332 and widened in the XVI century. Its present aspect is due to the architects Angelo Italia and Giuseppe Diamante (1669). The facade, designed by Emanuele Cardona, goes back to 1785. The bell tower realized adapting a preexisting military tower, belongs to the original building. Of the same period are the portal of the east side, attributed to Berrettaro (1499), and the elegant "Cappella dello Spirito Santo e della Sacra Spina" (Chapel of the Holy Spirit and of the Sacred Thorn) (1430), at the end of the right aisle. It keeps original stone pointed arches and the fresco of "La Pentecoste" (The Witsunday) (XV century) discovered during the restorations of 1958.
At the altar is placed a precious reliquary of 1636, in which there is a thorn, that, as they say, belonged to the crown of Jesus Christ. The inside of the church has got a basilica plan, three naves divided by two rows of red marble monolithic columns, coming from the Mount Bonifato. It keeps frescoes, realized in 1736-37 by the flemish painter William Borremans, and many other works of remarkable historical and artistic interest. Among them there are, in the right nave, a "Crocifisso" (Crucifix) in mixture (1523), a marble case (1519) of Antonello Gagini, and "L'Ultima Cena" (Last Supper) (1613), a painting of Andrea Carrera on the right chapel of the main altar. Admiring are even "L'Assunta" (1605), great painting of Neapolitan school on the main altar, the statue of St. Peter (1586), realized by Giacomo Gagini, on the altar of the tranpset, the "Madonna della Neve" (Our Lady of the Snow), fresco of the end of the XIV century, placed in the chapel on the left side of the main altar and, on the altar of the same chapel, the statue of the "Madonna dei Miracoli" (Our Lady of the Miracles) of Lorenzo Curti (1720) author, with his sons, of some stuccoes of the same church. Very beautiful is also the XVI century portal which lets in the sacristy, attributed to Berrettaro
One of the most valuable works of the church and, probably, of all Alcamo,is the high-relief of the "Transito della Vergine", in the third chapel of the left aisle. Realised in 1529 by Antonello Gagini, it represents, in a very expressive scene, the Virgin Mary on the death-bed encircled by the twelve Apostles. In the near chapel, at the sides of the wooden statue of the "Madonna del Carmelo" (at the end of the XVII century), we find two oval paintings of Borremans representing two episodes of the Old Testament: Abigail taming David's rage and Rutz and Booz. In this painting, according to tradition, the author has represented himself in the figure of Rutz, and one of his daughters in the one of Booz. Going on towards the exit door, in the first chapel of the left aisle, near the marble christening font of the beginning of the 16th century, there is the painting "Madonna del Lume" of Giuseppe Renda (XVIII century).
il testo è stato redatto da Giuseppe Calandrino

 

 

 

 

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